| The first wine that I ever made, intended only
to be home brew, made outside of bond, and so never labled nor offered
for sale. Very often served blind at my dinner table, rarely missing
from festive dinners.
On a very busy day in late September 1999, Luna was flooded with
sangiovese, from at least 3 vineyards at once. Our teacher and leader
made a triage decision to devote the winery's attention to the grapes
that seemed most promising-- the sangiovese streaming in without
apparent end from Game Farm. We parked the few tons of over-ripe
sangio from Mondavi's share of To-Kalon (planted in the 70s) and
the somewhat less over-ripe sangio from Voyager just up the road,
and waited for breathing room. By 10 am the next morning, we still
had not found time to crush the grapes, and more beautiful grapes
from Game Farm were coming in every hour. I asked John if I could
have some of the orphaned grapes. I had never talked about making
my own wine before. John stopped everything: "Abe wants to
make wine." I was guided at every step in my first winemaking
by John and by my cellar mates Nicole Abiouness, Drew Neiman, and
Kelly Wheat. I truly had no idea what I was doing, even some basic
vocabulary was completely opaque to me.
A crew of friends helped me bottle the wine in June 2001: Brigit
Favia, Christopher Vandendreissche, Rich Purvis. Rich was the first
person to push me toward super-low levels of sulfur dioxide in my
wines. The sangiovese came to bottling without any SO2 additions;
I (tardily but) prudently began adding SO2 to the wine right before
bottling; Rich tasted the wine after the addition to the first of
two barrels and damned the results. I was persuaded and bottled
half of the wine without any SO2. Both bottlings are superbly funky;
but neither one more than the other.
This decision has guided every move I have made in a winery since
then.
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