| 2006 ELSA'S VINEYARD
SCHOOL OF THE PLAINS:
This wine is large and dense. Its 12-month
fermentation has some responsibility for this, but much more is
the role of the vineyard itself. The wine is from a very special
cool-climate Pinot Grigio vineyard, tended like a garden by its
owner and full-time vineyard manager. Each vine is like a child
to them; each cluster not only ripens at the their hands but gets
something like an education. The result is an astonishing density of
flavor and the ability to preserve excellent structure even at intense
ripeness. The grapes were whole-cluster pressed, but the wine seems
to show some tannic richness nonetheless, a quinine salinity sometimes
found in serious cool-climate grigio and pinot gris, and a beautiful
floral nose, full of lilac, wisteria, lavender. It is not a strange
wine; strong but beautiful.
The name comes from an observation of mine about winemaking in the
Collio, source of great inspiration and teaching for me. There is
a school of the plains that favors minerality, florality, and bright
acidity and despises skin contact, oxidation, and excesses of malolactic
fermentation. And then opposed to them are the growers who live
and work in the hills, especially around San Floriano del Collio.
They harvest very ripe, macerate the juice with the skins and seeds,
expose the juice and wine to all kinds of oxygen, and tend not to
interfere with any aspect of the fermentations, including the malo-lactic.
This wine in no way resembles the wines from the plains, but is
named in homage to them. The School of the Plains would reject this
wine, but it still embodies what I learned there. 40 cs
You may order this wine
here.
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