| 2006 FARINA VINEYARDS
THE PRINCE IN HIS CAVES:
The name comes from Alberico Boncompagni
Ludovisi, the Prince of Venosa– a winemaker who toiled for
years, alone, on a tiny estate outside of Rome. I will not retell
his story here, but just say that when I heard it, my breath caught
within my chest and I thought that I was reading Poe or Aeschylus,
and not the weekday New York Times.
"His caves" because the Prince did not release any wines
that he made from 1986 till his last vintage in 1994; I imagine
him not only tending his two miniscule vineyards, but in his caves,
communing with nine years' worth of work, a complex, sedimented
isolation.
The wine is a skin-fermented Sauvignon from
Farina. It is from a different section of the vineyard than the
LSB, from richer, loamier soil, and from a different, much more
honeyed clone of Sauvignon. It is the same section that made the
Cena in 2005, but in 2006 there was no botrytis at all. The grapes
came in rich and fat; so fat that I thought that I had to bleed
them to make good wine. So I determined to treat them like red grapes
and destemmed then into a large fermenter from which I immediately
bled off 20% of the juice. They spent the next 3 weeks there; first
in a cold-soak and then with once or twice daily pumopovers until
the wine reached 4 brix. Then I drained the wine to almost all new
oak and allowed the fermentation to finish with complete leisure.
The wine went dry in July 2007, and revealed complexity and pleasure
beyond what I had ever hope for. The wine is honeyed from the fruit
and new oak, but stern, complex, many layered from the skin fermentation
and the pips. It has none of the excesses of the Cena. It is reticent
rather than boisterous, withdrawn, like the Prince. 285 cases
You may order this wine
here.
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